MR P'S CURIOUS TAVERN

Mrs. Cheoff and I dropped in here on February 16th 2017 for lunch on our way home from a Wearside (literally) Valentine's Day stay. The lingering (ever-present) romance meant that we agreed to share the 'Taste by Surprise' menu without too much argument. 

Charcuterie Plate: Hazelnut and Apple Salami, Chorizo, Lomo,
Bread, Oil and Balsamic

All on this platter was quite delicately cured and flavoured. Very thin slices - but about right considering what was to follow. We dipped our bread into an oil which was unremarkable and a vinegar which was certainly much sharper and less sweet than expected or wanted.

Calamari with Marie Rose Aïoli

The disaster. I foolishly assured Mrs Cheoff that this would convince her to include properly cooked squid in her menu options in future. What arrived was a bowl of those elasticated bobbles which are ideal for tidying up long hair but get sent back to a professional kitchen. The 'bobbles' were coated in a poorly seasoned, slightly damp ‘batter’. I still haven’t worked out how the squid could be so over-cooked inside while the outside coating was so limp. The sauce at least had a fruity, acidic hit of tomato.
Chef agreed to send an alternative.

 ‘Seaside’ Pickled Cockles, Mussels and Oak Roast Salmon
Marsh Samphire, Sour Cream and Poor Man’s Caviar

A clever, very pleasing mix here. Great coastal flavours dragged from the promenade stall and given a few richer touches with a smoked element and a suggestion of caviar which wouldn’t normally appear in your polystyrene cup… this was nicely presented in a ‘Kilner’ jar. Back on track.

Potted Clatter Dove ‘Royale’, Smoked Bacon Butter, Raisins, Black Truffle Brioche

My favourite. Let's forget that silly old ‘caviar’ business - this was truly more indulgent. Smoked butter was far thicker than expected... and all the better for that. Hidden chunks of bacon were awfully welcome. Wood pigeon was delicately rich and balanced out by sharp raisins. Is the fecund aroma of truffle on sweet brioche a step too far? Absolutely not… why stop short of complete and utter seduction?

‘Two Chefs’ Braised Pig Cheek Cottage Pie, Smoked Mashed Potato, Marmite Glazed Carrots

Almost a roaring success. This reads as a crowd-pleaser but, apart from the smashing carrots*, the other elements' flavour and seasoning were disappointingly weak and underplayed. So nearly there.
* I take little heed of you Marmite haters.

Tandoori Pheasant, Spiced Squash, Mango Purée, Fennel, Peanuts and Raisins

Again we had all the ingredients and recipe ideas for a treat. Again the flavours which should have come from spices were almost absent. The meat was dry and it didn't help that any suggestion of hot, smoky tandoor cooking was also missing. Our taste buds were not jaded... we were perfectly ready for further challenge.

Crumbed Black Pudding and Mustard Mayonnaise

This was our replacement for the calamari catastrophe. No real frills here but the earthiness of the pudding was given a wake-up call with just the right attack from mustard. The crumb joined in and formed a trio of well-judged textures. Simple, generous and tasty.

Admiral Collingwood Cheese, Landlord’s Pickle

Most cheeses hit the spot in some way. This was no exception. We’d enjoyed the pickle over at Harome on our last visit. It was lovely to make friends again.

Yorkshire Rhubarb ‘n’ Ginger Upside Down Cheesecake

Not the strongest of finishes. Our main concern was the titchy amount of rhubarb. I couldn't identify much ginger. There was a 'cakey' crumb on top but the 'cheesy' section was replaced with a melted custard ice cream. All a tad confused. And the cold numbed any little flavour which might have been there.

Trebbiano di Romagna, Le Coste Poderi, 2014

Wines are usually reliable from 'Pernshire' and our white didn't disappoint. Driving duty restraints limited our exploration here but the rest of the list looks as sound as expected. There is also a generous ginfest for those so inclined.

All in all a bit of a bumpy ride. We have only enjoyed sheer delight at the flagship (mothership?) Star Inn but I recognise that Mr. P's is a different beast. I would certainly return here but probably not risk the 'surprises' which were sprung upon us. Most of the items were available to choose from the  main menu. I'm sure you could find enough to enjoy on a more personally controlled basis. And, as was made clear, the responsive, professional kitchen is perfectly willing and able to compensate for any occasional weakness. 

I'm not here to put you off. Walk around the quirky interior (between courses or on your way to the loo) but be prepared to focus on the food. York has so much to offer and, when all is said and done, Mr. P's holds out the prospect of city centre eating well above average.

Many thanks to our server, Perrie, who provided confident and reassuring advice and acted as a very diplomatic go-between with the kitchen when things weren't quite right.

Many design considerations went into Mr. P's... look for the influential graphics on this bottle from an interesting South African wine producer when you visit. 

Gravetye Manor Hotel and Restaurant

Lunch for three on 2 March 2017

I have already paid tribute to my Mum on these pages. Here is an update on the little girl in the picture used for that post. This is Mum on her 89th birthday, ready to lunch at Gravetye Manor Restaurant.  

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A treat for a special, deeply loved person. And a poignant odd number at our table for this meal. Just a month before this her husband, my step-father, had passed away. 

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Here are the words which will greet you as you consider the menu.

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The success of that mission statement was abundantly obvious throughout our entire meal. We suppressed our appreciation to below Meg Ryan’s levels at Katz's Delicatessen. None of the other diners would have paid us much heed anyway... every one of them was already enjoying what we were having.

My previously expressed fear that Gravetye might suffer by comparison with a favourite Cheltenham restaurant evaporated and disappeared with the arrival of so many ingredients given masterly treatment, releasing flavours which still linger in the memory.

That's a wrap for all you faint-hearted readers. This restaurant is special. All you must do now is to reserve a table to enjoy the glorious quality of eating which Gravetye offers. 

For the rest of you (my faithful masochists!) here is my expanded, more detailed version of events.

Sparkling Wine - Bloomsbury, Ridgeview Estate, Sussex, England 2014  

A birthday demands a little fizz and we were very close to one of the English vineyards which confounds devotees of champagne by being every bit as good as the French product. We really didn't need Downing Street's backing to tell us we'd made the right choice. This was celebration in a glass. Assorted nuts had been given lovely roasting and seasoning by the kitchen. Olives, too often a casual, almost ignored, extra were so fruity and mellow that they managed to distract me from my menu choices for a while.

Amuse-bouche

A carrot velouté was delicate, refined and rich all at the same time. It was sent from the kitchen to cleverly prepare us for much further delight.

To Start

Gravetye Garden Salad - confit hen’s yolk, young vegetables, crisp brassicas and spring flowers

Here was one decision which I had made before coming. After our meal we saw head gardener Tom Coward walk through the lounge as we drank coffee. I really should have leapt up and given thanks to him and his team for producing so many of the elements of our meal. This salad can be seen in preparation here. It exudes the loving care which has been given to each part from plant seed to plate, by gardener and chef. Dressing was restrained but the confit yolk was firmer than I had expected. This turned out to be perfect. A rich emulsion was preferable to a wetter liquid coating. A tiny orange flower (I'm guessing Marigold) joined with the fresh, crisp greenery and said, "I am Spring... eat me!" Much to my delight, Mrs Cheoff chose and enjoyed the same.

Seared Orkney Scallops - miso glaze, baby radish, sesame and seaweed cracker

The birthday girl's starter choice was expected. Mum likes her scallops. She liked these better than any scallops she has ever had.

To Follow

Roasted Breast and Confit Thigh of Guinea Fowl - variations of leek, pak choi, potato pressing and mead sauce

Mum described her guinea fowl as the best she has ever been served. The gentle attack from allium and lightly treated greens was perfectly balanced by the soft sweetness of meat and mead.

Saddle and Shoulder of Southdown Hogget - potato wrapped haggis, purple sprouting broccoli, mint jellies and lamb sauce

To no-one’s surprise, Mrs. Cheoff chose the lamb. One sticking point... “I can always leave the haggis,” she said. After a lifetime’s avoidance of the noble Burn’s Night staple, my wife’s conversion to and delectation of that element was quite a coup for the kitchen. I was lucky to be offered a tiny taste of it. I politely trusted Mrs C’s dreamy statement that hogget had been made a star turn without asking for a sneaky sample of that as well.

Newhaven Landed Turbot - chicken wings, Jerusalem artichoke, braised lettuce and lovage

My turbot was finished so perfectly but it still struggled for top billing. Crunchy, smoky artichoke skins and softer vibrant greens, including lovage with its celery hints, were great. The 'gravy' was an insistent, rich concentration of all the goodness that is found on the base of roasting dishes. But on either side of the fish were two nuggets (discard any thought whatsoever of meals which can be 'super-sized' elsewhere) of wing meat. Bearing the stigmata of recently removed skewers, they just about stole the show. It was like eating the tastiest Sunday roast dinner in the knowledge that a work-free Bank Holiday would follow. The flavours hit and matched the length of finish found in the finest wines.

Wine - Ventoux, Domaine de Fondrèche 2014  

I had already made a good choice with the 'fizz'. We have been lucky enough to enjoy the Domaine de Fondreche rouge where it is produced, in the shadow of Mont Ventoux. Seeing their white on the lists at Gravetye was an interesting proposition. Head Sommelier, Alexis Jamin, simply confirmed my choice. He thought it would complement the hogget particularly well.  Alexis proved to be the perfect advisor. At half my age and already possessing more knowledge than I will ever have, he managed to massage my ego and cleverly made me feel as if I knew what I was talking about. After more or less insisting that Mum should try the Banyuls with her chocolate, I was all tuckered out on the vine suggestions. Alexis, of course, stepped in to save my fluster with two more lovely dessert wines.

To Finish

Caramelised White Chocolate Mousse - variations of apple, cinnamon and treacle gel

with Sauternes, Château Villefranche, France 2013 

Guanaja Bitter Sweet Chocolate Bar - marmalade on toast ice cream and cocoa nibs

with Banyuls ‘Cirera, Domaine Madeloc, Côte Du Roussillon, France 2010  

Mum and Mrs Cheoff’s desserts belied the restaurant's assertion that presentation is unimportant. They were beautifully prepared but still heavily underlined that dominant focus on flavour. Gels, sorbets and tuiles all added lovely flavour, temperature and texture notes.

How great that hopes for Mum's birthday meal had been met and totally exceeded... she deserves nothing less.

Roasted Acorn Crème Brûlée - thyme, hazelnut and parsnip cake

with Coteaux du Layon ‘Passerillé’, Philippe Delesveaux France 2014

My dessert should have been a revelation. But, hey, I have roasted acorns for panna cotta and used parsnips in pre-desserts. The crème brûlée was lightly nutty and might have been given the appellation ‘Burnt English Cream’. That would have fitted better with its thin crust of Bonfire Toffee. Once again, perfectly judged bitterness to undercut sweetness from other elements. The cake can be described when I’ve come up with an alternative for ‘perfect’ in my thesaurus. Light and airy and refined as the dining space surrounding us. Dabs of sweetness from purées and parsnip tuiles completed the plate and made it crystal clear that vegetables, used sympathetically, deserve a place right at the end of a triumphant meal. OK, let's rewrite that opening sentence for this paragraph…
My dessert was a revelation.

Chef Blogg was visible too. I smiled but did not interrupt as I passed him in conversation at the stair well. Leading his team into such elevated territory after less than three years is a wonderful achievement. I submitted a short tweet after we returned home referring to 'indelible memories' of such a fine lunch. There was a polite response from their social media arm, showing how much of the traditional and formal surface appearance at Gravetye is already updating and developing itself.  

But in all the joy of such a successful visit there was one more 'wonderful achievement' which puts all into perspective. Three days after the meal our chef made this announcement on Twitter. Let's face it, the importance of his few words are worth a thousand of mine for this review. I still repeat my congratulations to all at Gravetye for a wonderful meal but I'll finish by congratulating George on what could be his greatest creation outside the kitchen.

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@Twitter, March 7 2017

Gardener's Delight*

*If only I'd used the internet, I'd be able to say, "That's Lycopersicon esculentum to you!"

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Middle of April 2010

Seven years ago we built a couple of raised beds in our garden. It was the start of a very amateur but very keen attempt to be as close to fresh produce as possible. We have made mistakes which we still don't always understand but every year we have also been given so much simple, abundant pleasure that we can't now imagine cooking regularly without ingredients which are picked just minutes before preparation.  

As a tribute to all those small, wonderful successes, I've put together an album of HOME GROWN pictures which shows the variety of vegetables (and a few of the fruits) which have delighted us.  

The main growing area is still only four and a half by five metres. This is always supplemented by many tubs and troughs but gives terrific rewards from very little space. No plans for an allotment yet... cooking produce half an hour old would be an awful compromise!

I'm not sure our sons have forgiven us for removing the pond and two conifers which they planted as toddlers. But I do know that they enjoy as much of the new garden as they can when they return... they sometimes even grab and cook parts of it.

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Beginning of July 2010

Oh, we've never had a greenhouse. Just two plastic 'sentry box' affairs to give seedlings a bit of protection. 2017 will be much the same. I've had a spring tidy up already and will add to the album when new crops appear.

It's all here waiting for your gentle click

Gousto

At the end of November last year we received our first box of four meals for two from the Gousto Kitchen. All free, courtesy of an offer shared by our son, James. 

We are now half way through our fifth box... and still not feeling at all guilty about being reasonably confident and accomplished cooks who occasionally 'slum' it with a food delivery service! Initially, we were attracted to the idea of relieving the strain of everyday cooking while we planned and prepared Christmas meals and treats. Events since - busy, dramatic, sad and time-consuming - have meant that a box of ingredients gives us the chance to draw breath.  

I've put together an album of pictures in the PHOTOS section of this blog, showing each recipe cooked so far. It will be updated as often as possible. The interesting thing will be to see what happens to the balance between Gousto's prescriptions and our normal practice... food which we plan and cook from scratch ourselves.  

We are resourceful people and the Gousto boxes simply offer another resource for us. The process will be under review. With the arrival of ingredients such as smoked Basa fish fillets produced just down the road in Grimsby we are immediately reminded that alternatives are available.

We will almost certainly return to previous (cheaper, healthier?) habits soon. However, one thing that has not been sacrificed is flavour. For that and, at the very least, short-term convenience it might be worth considering Gousto or any of the other delivery companies. There are many introductory offers which could tempt you.

Blogging For The First Time

Blogg... George Blogg.

Chef... Michelin starred chef.

Never eaten his food before but we are booked at Gravetye Manor Restaurant for lunch with Cheoff's Mummy for her eighty-ninth birthday next month... we will be Blogging for the first time.

Normally I'd give you a post-prandial low-down but this particular visit raises a few points which I'll share now before the event.

How do we prepare ourselves for such an occasion? A birthday treat for someone who is unreservedly loved and admired by her family, friends and neighbours. The poignancy that her husband, my very recently deceased step-father, is definitely not able to join us. What to wear? Who will drink and not drive? We'll bring those and many other thoughts and considerations to the table. Some will have been resolved before arrival. Some, like our menu and wine choices, we will work through while there.

The most intriguing (I must stress, not the most worrying) question for me is how I'll react to eating food from a chef whose training includes a stint with David Everitt-Matthias in Cheltenham. Regular readers will know the love/hero worship/recourse to stunning recipes which are generated by my favourite chef. The fact that the immensely talented Phil Howard has also been a formative influence might easily fan the fire of fearing how well chef Blogg will pass muster. But no. As I stressed, I will have few worries. I have reached the point where I very reluctantly make comparisons in the face of alternative approaches to ingredients and their potential. We will simply be in different, but safe, hands. 

I like the fact that Chef Blogg all but dismisses presentation from his approach. That is surely a mildly disingenuous suggestion of his. Every dish will most likely look as pretty as a picture while delivering the more important elements of flavour and texture which come from a full understanding of cooking. Let's face it... with a bountiful garden of produce on his doorstep, our chef stands a chance.

I will enjoy everything put before me... even if it is the enjoyment of being challenged by something new or unexpected. 

But, above all, I am looking forward to sharing that enjoyment with the person who will celebrate another year of being on this earth. Mum has in fact already been to a different Gravetye Manor... one from over thirty years ago. Being in the days of 'Nouvelle Cuisine', certain of her fellow diners still remember leaving and having a midnight fry-up back at home! No such prospect for us. Chef knows what he is about and I think we are all wise enough to let him hold sway.

Ah, George should perhaps be told... my Mum is also a terrific cook. So, I admit that a few cheeky comparisons might be made after all!

Let's finish with a delicious and enticing video of what we are expecting... outstanding ingredients treated with respect and, dare I say it, perfectly presented. I might even ask Mum to help me with a review here in due course.

A Star* From Yorkshire

Pressed Terrine of Yorkshire Gammon with Fried Ledstone Quail Egg, Spiced Pineapple Pickle, Mustard Seed Dressing

This is a really pleasing take on the classic gammon, egg and pineapple. 

Before I get down to the business of convincing you that this is not such a challenging recipe and will handsomely repay any small effort, here is the genesis of it appearing in our kitchen. 

Diana Henry's, 'The Gastropub Cookbook' received as a present (not in 2003 at publication... probably around 2008).  
Made note of various recipes and restaurants from that book, especially Andrew Pern's Yorkshire pub. 
Finally (July 2014) booked for lunch at The Star Inn, Harome for our thirty-eighth wedding anniversary. 
Duly enjoyed that lunch as a lovely, memorable meal which I then reviewed at some length. 
Unwrapped 'Black Pudding and Foie Gras' on my sixty-fifth birthday last year. 
Travelled up to Harome later that same day and had one of my finest ever birthday meals** (I'm being very honest. It was wonderful... but other chef's still force their way into that roll-call). 
Gave my new recipes proper consideration and determined to include this terrine as part of our Christmas food. 
Made and enjoyed as planned... and will be made and enjoyed again.  

The recipe is available here if your order for Andrew Pern's first book hasn't yet been delivered.  

We all know the rules by now. So, here is your starter for ten... out of ten. 

This is some of what you will be getting up to when you make your own. 

Two generous ham hock ends here with their cooking vegetables and aromatics. Meat waiting to be stripped and shredded. 

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Layering up makes the whole thing start to look very promising. I would be grateful if you don't share this post with my Mum... she's been wondering what happened to her Le Creuset dish for quite some time now! 

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With the addition of jellied stock and an overnight fridge vacation you should have a thing of beauty whose 'joy' is unlikely to last for ever... so you'll just have to make another! 

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I sliced the whole thing, keeping four portions for that evening's starter, and froze the rest. They made a dainty supper at Christmas with the last of the pickle and a discussion of the latest Star Wars movie. More contact with stellar stuff! 

The pineapple pickle and the dressing are very easy to make. I did use quail eggs but if they are tricky to find I'm sure you could substitute a confit yolk from a chicken. A whole large egg would have to be carefully placed or trimmed so as not to hide the slice of terrine. 

I failed to be truly authentic... Grimsby isn't in Yorkshire! But our quality butcher and a lady whose quails lay eggs for doorstep sales are within half a mile of our house. 

This recipe had been available to me for ages before I made it. Please don't make the same mistake. Make this your next job in the kitchen. You will be rewarded with a perfect, scaled-down version of a pub classic.***  

* Star/Starter/Star Turn: delete where applicable. 

** That terrific sixty-fifth birthday meal last October is still nagging at me. Not just visions of the wonderful Yorkshire produce and its cooking but the memories of lovely people who made it possible. Those particular 'stars' at Harome need proper recognition... expect my overdue review soon. 

*** Hey, if you really don't feel up to the (minimal) challenge, at the time of writing this is on the menu at the relatively new venture, 'Star Inn The City', York!

Scott Barnard Dessert

Dark chocolate ganache, banana and passion fruit sorbet and cocoa nib tuile

It took eleven months... but I finally got round to making my version.

The following picture is taken from a thread on Scott Barnard's Facebook page. He had just posted details of a dessert cooked by him on Masterchef: The Professionals. My comment at the end was made in January 2016 so when December arrived I thought it was high time I came up with the goods!

Here is a link to Scott's Facebook recipe generosity.

And 'muddy stilettos' (a well-shod blogger who isn't too careful where they step?) has also published a version including the panna cotta which I added to my efforts.

Passion fruit purée and cocoa nibs were ordered from the very useful souschef.co.uk and things began to take shape. 

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Blitzing that caramel produced an incredibly fine powder and resulted in a lovely thin sheet on melting. I cut these into generous tuiles which, although large, were delicate enough to dissolve in the mouth rather than creating a chewy stickiness.

The sorbet is a stunner. Anything with passion fruit is a winner with me but the addition of banana here makes the whole thing into a heady tropical cocktail (without the alcohol!)

I had doubts about the panna cotta while I was making it. The mix, although sieved, was rather thick even before adding gelatine. I will modify this in future, creating a more fluid mix by doubling the milk content. The friends who I shared this with were very forgiving but it's an element which needs correcting. 

The soil is a much-needed combination of texture and bitterness amid all the silky luxury of chocolate and cream.

Among so much competition, the ganache just about managed to survive as the centrepiece. I was really pleased with its texture and richness. They were set in metal rings and it's the first time I've released things from such a mould with a quick flash of a blow torch around the edge. As each cylinder slid perfectly free I had a tiny, foolish notion that I might be able to survive in a professional kitchen.

This was a delight to make. It's not as demanding as some online comments suggest... and my strong suspicion that all would be worth the effort was proved undeniably in the eating.

Scott recently reviewed his year since making it to the finals of 'Masterchef: The Professionals' on his Instagram account. As you can see, he has an exciting 2017 ahead, taking on the duties of cooking as head chef at Crockers -Chef's Table-

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I can't guarantee that I'll make it to Potten End straight away but I'm certainly going to make any more recipes which chef sends our way. Good luck, Scott... and thanks for all the delicious inspiration.

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