Dinner for four.

Occasional roundups appear here of more developed menus presented to family and/or friends. Here is my latest.

Fennel had to begin fermentation at least four days before serving and a few other elements were also prepared well ahead of time. With careful planning it is possible to cook adventurously and still spend the majority of quality time with guests. This was perhaps my most successful effort so far in that respect. Even fish and fowl cookery was managed with little ‘abandonment’ of the other diners.

Canapés
Cheesy nibbles
Basil cream and confit tomato tart
Egg and chorizo jam
Smoked mackerel, horseradish, pickled apple
Champagne Pol Guyot Brut NV

All ready before arrival. Not too soon so as to avoid crisp elements becoming soggy. The cheese nibbles are a family favourite. I have already given the recipe for them here.
The remaining trio were pulled together using various previously made store cupboard items. I was particularly pleased about my first half decent production of mini tart cases.
Just ensure that flavour combinations work and decide on a suitable bottle to get things going.

Amuse
Parsley panna cotta, white onion purée, smoked bacon foam, cep powder
(A David Everitt-Matthias recipe from ‘beyond essence’)

A bit of a stunner as an appetiser. The recipe was refined at Le Champignon Sauvage from an idea of Keiron Stevens while he was rising through the ranks there. He’s since had a quietly stellar career. Catch up with him here.
There was much thoughtful enjoyment of this dish. Flavours are beautifully insistent and work together seamlessly. I don’t have an espuma gun to deliver foams so I added agar agar to the mix for a very light bacon gel.

Breads
Rosemary and sea salt focaccia
Bacon and shallot brioche rolls
Mini wholemeal loaves

Even for me this was an indulgent bread offering. My first brioche loaves and rolls. Most definitely not my last!

Starter
Halibut with potato, pepper dulse and fennel
Txakoli, Bodegas Katxina, DO Getariako Txacolina 2022

A classy fish starter. Not too demanding to put together. That mousseline was firmer than I would have liked. No-one else cared.
The Txakolina we drank with this was a new wine to us. Purchased on our Isle of Wight trip last year from The Wine Room at the Terrace, Ventnor. I would certainly repeat it. Occasionally. Very fresh and gentle. Strangely reminiscent of a ‘Sprite’ - but just that bit more sophisticated!

Wines
Champagne Pol Guyot Brut NV
Txakoli, Bodegas Katxina, DO Getariako Txacolina 2022
Princes de France Condrieu Du Peloux 2019
La Rioja Alta Seleccion 874 Rioja Reserva 2017
Viognier, Vendanges d'Octobre, Coteau Saint Giraud, IGP Ardèche, Vignerons Ardéchois 2020

Main
Roast pheasant, parsnip dauphinoise, mulled damsons, carrot
(Based on a James Mackenzie recipe from Diana Henry’s ‘The Gastropub Cookbook: Another Helping’)
Princes de France Condrieu Du Peloux 2019 or La Rioja Alta Seleccion 874 Rioja Reserva 2017

All here pretty much on point. The parsnip dauphinoise actually stole the show but I gave it some serious competition with a glossy gravy. I adapted the recipe, beginning with shallots and thyme and then reducing half litres of red wine and beef stock until something irresistible resulted. Damsons still made their appearance.

Bread and cheese
Pistachio, almond and cranberry loaf. Aged Gouda. Damson cheese
(Left out on the night in question. Some other time, eh)

Cheese is something we love to eat but rarely include in a multi-course meal at home or when eating out. I was ready to offer this on the night but had decided against it before the pre-dessert was served. Perhaps best included another time instead of a pre-dessert.

Pre-dessert
Lemon verbena and olive oil sorbet, blood orange jelly, marmalade

My own ideas for this one. It made a nice palate cleanser and transition between savoury and sweet. Pictured on the left is what I served on the night - complete with melting sorbet! On the right is a record of my ‘expanded’ version, made in a relaxed moment long after all guests, pots and pans had been cleared away. Bitter orange powder, sumac and orange flower water have been included for a ‘St Clement’s goes to the Middle East’ vibe. In my back pocket for another occasion. I’m minded to place a few pieces of popping candy with it for extra fun.

Dessert
Poire Williams baba, blackberry compote, damson and clotted cream ice cream
(Based on this Tom Kerridge recipe)
Viognier, Vendanges d'Octobre, Coteau Saint Giraud, IGP Ardèche, Vignerons Ardéchois 2020

Mrs Cheoff took off some of the load by cooking the sponge for this. My pear infused vodka formed the boozy element of the syrup and the bottle is currently depleted enough to consider making fresh supplies.
Varying portion sizes were a result of some guest requests in response to their decreased stomach capacity. More melting elements on display in the ice cream. Relax. I’m not a professional.

Petits fours
Bitter chocolate, raisin, and Indian long pepper fudge
Rum and sweet woodruff canelés
Pear and vanilla jellies
Kaju katli
White chocolate and salted lemon fudge
Amaretto sour pastilles

Always a good idea to make the effort to end on a bang rather than a whimper. I made canelés and kaju katli for the first time to add to jellies and fudges I’d already made.

There. I can’t bother you with details of fine single estate beans. Relatively speaking, coffee was the saddest affair of the night. My faithful Rancilio espresso machine needs a service so we made do with a cafetière and milk heated in the microwave.
Bit of a bugger. But I still emerged with generous compliments for all the previous goings on. This was a reasonably intricate affair even for me but I managed to come through it all with enough energies for a digestif before bed.

And now, it’s over and out. And over to you, of course. Get cooking in your own kitchen!

Preparation and kitchen goings-on