Le Nid, Flayosc
La Balade Gourmande - Dinner for 4 - Tuesday 9 July 2024
What a delightful find. We wanted to treat good friends to a celebration meal for their 50th Wedding anniversary while staying with them in Lorgues, France.
After we had booked for Wednesday the 10th, the England men’s football team reached the semi-final of EURO24 to be played on that evening. Which gave us pause for thought. Spaces were available on the previous day; probably due to France competing in the other semi-final.* We jumped in and secured our meal.
Chef Davy Jobard and his wife Emilie are in total control of the food and hospitality which you will receive. While they rely on the hard work and great ingredients of local producers, the dishes brought to you with undoubted understanding and undeniable charm by Emilie have been conceived and prepared solely by Davy. As he relaxed at the end of service, I asked chef how large his brigade de cuisine might be. “C’est moi, seul.” was his quietly modest reply.
A few words about the food follow. Such a shame you have to read them rather than enjoy the real thing.
Our introduction was this unexpected offering which is not announced on the menu. I say ‘unexpected’ but, of course, we were in the company of generous hosts.
Amuse
Espuma de pomme de terre, herbes, œufs de saumon
Mediterranean influence, along with a flip to North African and Middle Eastern flavours underpinned much of the evening. But you will identify insistent Provencal notes in just about all of these dishes.
The flesh of local tomato formed a cloche over soft cod. Favouille gazpacho was a new variant to me on soups, bisques, and sauces of crab, rock fish and shellfish. Perhaps saffron was involved here but a lightness of touch to the whole mix made it suited to summer eating.
La Tomate de Flayosc, Chiquetaille de morue / Gaspacho de favouille / fines herbes.
Did someone say Provencal? Well here is ratatouille along with a mash-up of pistou and tapenade ingredients. Fresh, vibrant vegetables were topped with a confit yolk to give a spot of rich emulsion when broached.
The English menu has a disarmingly faux translation which suggests that the yolk has been ‘candied’. Not to worry. Anything remotely reminiscent of syrupy fruits will appear later.
La fine ratatouille, servi froide, Jaune d’œuf confit / courgette trompette.
Fish at the forefront next. Great ingredients combined to provide a well-balanced plate. All elements added rather than detracted from the dish, with softer textures being explored.
Le Maigre de nos côtes, Cocos de Pays/ petites girolles d’été / jus à la livèche.
Lamb was rich but made less heavy by pairing with perfectly cooked vegetables. The aubergine caviar was particularly successful and will be repeated in our kitchen before summer says farewell.
Compression d’épaule d’’Agneau de nos bergers provençaux, aux épices / légumes / caviar d’aubergines.
The wine list is hugely appealing. Not too frighteningly extensive but the accent on Provencal and Rhone wines offers plenty of delights.
Our white choice went well with fish, vegetables and cheese.
Being able to add a red from the ‘Wines by the glass’ selection is such a sensible idea.
The decision to include a cheese course presented an extra challenge to our stomach capacity but added even more flavour profiles to our experience. The combination of sweet tang from the cheese along with fruit and herbs was a very good bridge between main and dessert.
’Friend Thomas’ who is referenced on the menu as the cheese producer is from La Ferme de la Bastide de Sollies.
You can see more of him (and his goats!) on these Facebook and Instagram links.
Le Chèvre frais de l’Ami Thomas, Pastèque / fenouil sauvage.
Dessert often leads guests out of a meal with a bit of a whimper. Not here. Restraint, crunch, softness, and the intrigue of candied olive all signalled that chef’s intent stayed strong to the last. The almond ice cream was spot on.
L’Amande / Fleur d’oranger / Olive noir maturé, Ode à la Provence.
Despite our avoidance of tea, coffee or digestifs, Emilie brought clever petits fours. We began to reflect on a rather glorious meal and willingly settled our bill.
Gelée de fraises et basilic, chocolat noir et sarriette
Davy Jobard changes the menu every five weeks. That is hugely indicative of his passion which demands he explore the freshest of ingredients when in season. Which means that he conceives and gives birth to something new and vibrant almost every month. There are points of interest at every touch and turn. Even at table among good friends it is worth pausing to acknowledge the effort and skill which has brought you such bounty. You will almost certainly find yourself forced to ignore your company, at least for short periods, to appreciate the wealth of textures and, above all, flavours which Le Nid offers.
Thanks - heartfelt ones - go to Davy and Emilie for creating something so special.
*Our heartfelt commiserations to France and its football supporters. As we headed for home we passed the Cafe du Midi and watched the manager turn off the big screen as a nation’s disappointment set in.