ARRAS - York

Let’s start with what I submitted on Tripadvisor after developments since this meal.

And here is my fuller assessment just for you. One which will have far fewer views than torrid old Tripadvisor (unless, of course, my ‘agent’ - as if - persuades me to become an influencer and I go viral!)

Lots of great cooking flavours - an off-taste elsewhere

Wednesday 12 October 2022
Arras Carte, Dinner Menu for 2

Our first visit. A quiet service with just two other dining pairs.

Cropped photographs have been added to give pause and light relief from my written reflections. They link to the full work of reviewers who managed to snap their meals for Tripadvisor. Oh, except for the very last one. That’s mine showing a bread-mopped main plate!

Furniture is very comfortable. It's not often you can slump in a dining chair! The modern room decor might challenge some but I always hope that owners feel free to express their own tastes rather than pandering to that of guests - we are only there for a few hours. Service was quietly attentive, cleverly responsive and nicely paced.

The food? Pretty much terrific. Flavour is the bedrock of the delivery here and it was delivered to us with confidence and, for the most part, with great success.

The website sample menus had piqued my interest and I was hoping some of the dishes might appear on the night. None of them did. The fact that I was in no way disappointed and immediately became interested in the alternative offerings is testament to the responsive and inventive cooking here. Some dishes are tried and tested but are perhaps only brought back when season and ingredients are right. You will see my mead dessert in an earlier manifestation on the Arras Instagram pages here.

So many good ideas can create confusion but most dishes appear to include that important skill of knowing when to stop.

Canapés
These were interesting takes on old standards but thankfully not too clever to lose focus. They formed a tasty talking point as an introduction to the evening. A featherlight chickpea samosa had perfect gentle spicing. Smoked mackerel on puffed skin cracker came complete with welcome thread-thin twists of dried chilli. The trio was completed by an Egg McMuffin® in all but name and proportion. Reduced to bite-size and thoughtfully adorned with a yolk emulsion less likely to spurt onto any carefully (allegedly) chosen fashion choices.
A good beginning.

And all things food continued to be good or very good. Our amuse was a robust assault of things cheese and onion. Well, one cheese and then onion in mousse, crisp and caramelised form. Slightly pulled back by the onion ‘chutney’ found at the base but still rather rich right at the start of a meal. The cheese element came in the form of a gougère. Lurking under the mousse, its classic characteristics of parchment crisp shell and pillowy interior were seriously compromised into sogginess. Shame.

Starters
Roast Sweetbreads, Black Garlic, Sweetcorn

Gammon, Egg and Chip?
Pressed Ham Hock, Herb Jelly, Crispy Potato Terrine, Egg Net, Pineapple Relish

Starters were much enjoyed. My sweetbreads just about held their own against the mild pungency of garlic, and sweet and charred corn. The cuisson of the sweetbreads made them fine for eating but failed to create any crusted surfaces.

‘Gammon, Egg and Chip?’ is one of the re-stylings of old faithful dishes on which this restaurant regularly likes to rely for inspiration (We were tempted by ‘Not Quite the Black Forest’ on the dessert menu). All elements were well represented but Mrs Cheoff would have liked a more literal nod to the egg – perhaps with a quail egg to replace the ‘foo yung’ lattice.

Unless there is a change of plan the Arras signature sourdough loaf and butter will be there to give purpose to your side plate.

Wine
The wine list is fairly extensive and potentially daunting with its mix of the friendly priced with more opulent ‘big-hitters’. Email ahead for the list to avoid excessive decision making right before eating. The cellar is developing. Bear in mind the proviso that some wines might have become unavailable.

We had seen what appeared to be an interesting wine on the list. Sommelier (and front of house) Anastasia’s favourable reaction confirmed that we should try it. La Graine Sauvage Sybil Baldassarre Faugeres 'Rocalhas' Blanc 2019 presented familiar grapes expressed with unfamiliar profiles - to us - of herbs and a mildly salty and oxidised tang. I’ll riff on the talented Italian maker’s surname and recommend her wine as an impressively ‘badass’ creation. Coming in at roughly half our average spend on wine when dining out added unexpected charm to our choice.
We are now frustrated – veering towards seriously miffed – that this is not readily available to buy in the UK. But we are relying on friendly, more knowledgeable merchants to provide something similar.

Mains
Cod, Carrot, Lettuce and Olive, Riesling and Carrot Sauce

Salmon, Pickled Cabbage, Warm Potato Salad, Burnt Apple Purée, Horseradish Cream

Lovely flavour profiles and combinations at the heart of our meal. My cod was beached onto Mediterranean shores with black olives and the wine’s fruit and acidity quietly and insistently underpinned a very well balanced sauce.

Mrs Cheoff’s salmon dish suffered from a lack of textural contrasts but did not disappoint with its successful juggling of flavours. Horseradish cream might have been deliberately understated but both fish being cooked ‘over’ will always have guests asking for a closer eye to be kept on the ball – or whatever is in the pan.

Dessert
‘Pineapples, Rums, Raisins’
Caramelised Pineapple, Milk Mousse, Macerated Raisins, Rum Ice Cream

‘Mead Baba’
Honey Roast Pear, Pear and Mead Jelly, Pear Sorbet

Nicely judged and smile-inducing puds for both of us. Mrs Cheoff’s pineapple still went tropical enough even without a coconut element. Mead brought more sugar to the end of my meal than I would normally choose but dessert is just another word for sweet, after all. There was still enough lightness and balance in both puds to induce grins rather than groans.

Square Mile Coffee Roasters already get regular orders from me so I know we wouldn’t have had problems with the quality of the restaurant choice of beans. But we bypassed coffee and also – some might be mildly horrified to hear – declined Arras’ much lauded petits fours.*
We had been given ample evidence of the attractions which Arras offers and decided to call it a day.
(Editor: ‘night’!).

*I politely refuse to divulge whether or not our return to overnight accommodation still resulted in something hot and strong with a sweet, sticky climax for Mrs Cheoff and me. I always think that such detail is beyond the remit of this sort of review.

Ahem.

Michelin’s online Guide includes the restaurant on its list of those worthy of a visit. The Arras approach and pricing pushes it outside the category which might be considered for a Bib Gourmand. We had the same experience that most guests seem to enjoy but inspectors will look for more consistency in the cooking before even beginning to consider the accolade of a star. Awards are fine and good but they should not truly matter to guests as long as chefs here continue to present the thoughtful, flavoursome plates we were treated to.

The good quality of food was our inescapable focus at Arras. Our evening was well spent. But the best hospitality should be a fully rounded experience. I can brush away an occasional less-than-perfectly-cooked element in a dish but awkwardness over changed menu prices and unexpected charges is - erm, awkward. I see mention of the website’s out of date prices in other reviews. It surprises me that any change in these isn’t accompanied by a quick update of online details. A lack of transparency about the price of our sparkling aperitif choice was also unfortunate. I hope these inconsistencies are addressed. Carelessness is not a great look. Couldn’t care less looks a lot worse.

They do say start with positives and try to end on one, don’t they. So, despite the inconsistencies I’ve identified, I’d still recommend Arras to you. “EXQUISITE MODERN & RELAXED” says their website. ‘Exquisite’ is stretching things a little. Whereas ‘Modern & Relaxed’ only covers a couple of their undeniable attractions. Go for the food first - all kinds of other good things will follow.