essence
This post is a bit of a magnum opus which I suggest you attempt to take in at more than one sitting.
Here I’m giving myself the job of rounding up most of the recipes which I have so far managed to cook from the three books written by world-renowned chef David Everitt-Matthias. ‘World-renowned’ is the correct description. It does not mean that he is known by the majority of Earth’s population. But there are people worldwide with an understanding of David’s contribution to cooking and his training and development of chefs. And every one of them is in unavoidable awe of his achievements and the inspiration he provides.
Recipes from his restaurant Le Champignon Sauvage remain approachable for the keen home cook. I used to love making Airfix and Revell model kits as a youngster. I look on my efforts in the kitchen as an application of the same skills and processes. I am still not an intuitive cook and rely on the help of good, clear instructions. But I do accept the challenge of recipes which some would avoid as too adventurous. That is only because practice has given me confidence to know my limits. Having said that, I have cooked for long enough to introduce a little of my own flair and modifications. I don’t make huge culinary advances - but I am pretty good at going off slightly sideways fairly regularly.
You will soon see that I have been heavily attracted by dessert recipes. Puddings are not generally on the weekly menus for Mrs Cheoff and me. Instead they appear as the finale to meals for invited family and friends. Mrs C has a host of well-known and oft-requested dishes. Those are always delicious and satisfying but I insist on mucking about considerably more to create my offerings. An Everitt-Matthias recipe gives me ample opportunity for that. They also give anyone the chance to pick out one or two elements only and still make something interesting and tasty.
I have detailed some of these dishes in my blog before. If you reference this post and it encourages you to try out some of the ideas my job is done. My new mantra is ‘Don’t just look - COOK!’
With a few exceptions, each recipe title below will link to a gallery of photographs of my results. Some were not captured and a few are still uncatalogued and waiting to be found on old hard drives. I will update where I can.
apricot sorbet
‘beyond essence’ p. 144
Sharply sweet? Sweetly sharp? Either way - just as it should be.
basil mojito sorbet
Mrs Cheoff chose the ‘lemon meringue tart’ (coming up below) on our first visit to Le Champignon Sauvage in 2010. Chef served it with this basil mojito sorbet. Six years later I asked for the recipe and got it. You don’t, I’m afraid. I have respected chef’s request not to share this particular one - but I would be very pleased to make some for you if you are passing this way! It’s a stand-alone stunner as far as I am concerned. Good enough for concentrated enjoyment in the pre-dessert I chose to make.
I give it some more companions in my ‘lemon and basil’ further down this page.
beetroot and bubblegum pastille
A recipe from David Everitt-Matthias’ Great British Chefs pages here
My excitement at juicing beetroot for the first time turned to surprise at the good yield of liquid. Four large beets gave just more than needed.
These are a great addition to a petit four selection. Raised eyebrows and discussion will almost certainly accompany the initial visual shock but should precede enjoyment of a treat which eats very well.
bitter chocolate fudge
‘essence’ p. 172
Pistachio and raisin added to this one as per the recipe. Helen Everitt-Matthias is rather partial to this one. As the perfect host she will even suppress her glare should you dare to take it for yourself from the petits fours on offer with coffee!*
*The generous variety of the petits fours made at the restaurant also inspire me to have a good selection ready for guests at our home.
blackcurrant and liquorice jelly
‘dessert’ p. 141
Plenty of flavour here but I didn’t bring things right up to temperature for a more solid jelly. The ‘wrong’ soft set was still good enough after rolling in sugar.
braised blade of beef
‘essence’ p. 122
A main course!
No nettle risotto. Instead I went for a mustard mash, caramelised shallots and star anise carrots. Rich rewards here from the long cooking of the meat.
brandade
‘beyond essence’ p. 32
Salty, garlicky and creamy with a gently bitter tang from fried onions. Still no iSi gun at Cheoff Towers to deliver whipped foams. A trip to a well-known health food store for lecithin granules to be ground to powder was chef’s successful suggestion for the garlic froth.
I served this as an amuse and at least three of our guests admitted that their reservations about ingredients had been completely squashed by its rich but balanced flavours.
Pierre Koffmann judged the version which David cooked for him as one of the finest he had tasted.
caramel-poached pineapple, coconut gel, pineapple and lemon verbena sorbet
‘beyond essence’ p. 142
Apart from the too firm consistency of the coconut cream gel this was a bit of a dazzler. Worth the work spread over a couple of days. Even sweeter than the old-style tinned stuff, the pineapple is perfectly matched by that wonderful zingy sorbet.
chausson of elderberry & bramley with vanilla ice cream
‘beyond essence’ p. 146
The crunch and lightness of the duck fat pastry gives enough pleasure even before the filling reveals itself. This is a fruit turnover raised from the commonplace to special status.
chocolate and star anise truffle cake with fennel ice cream
‘essence’ p. 150
Food really should linger longer on the tongue for full appreciation. This sticks to the roof of your mouth and delays things before the swallowing.
The cake was made but I used vanilla ice cream and segmented oranges on my plate.
chocolate, orange, liquorice
(adapted from/inspired by bergamot parfait, orange jelly, liquorice cream - ‘beyond essence’ p. 139)
After eating the original dish at Le Champignon Sauvage I used similar flavours for two plates.
The first has a caramel ice cream robed with dark chocolate and some cocoa nib tuiles. Poached mandarins, orange jelly and candied peel complete.
The Gary Jones/Raymond Blanc recipe for liquorice ice cream replaces chocolate and caramel in the second version. Chocolate soil and hazelnut tuiles join in.
cinnamon-spiced doughnuts
‘dessert’ p. 105
(no photos available)
These were made as an alternative to the fried ‘bugnes’ which accompany Diana Henry’s Skier’s Chocolate drink recipe.
I froze some of the ‘cherries’ of dough and successfully fried them a few weeks later.
crab apple parfait with green apple and haw sorbet
‘essence’ p. 154
The tree in our neighbour’s garden at the end of the street has gloriously red crab apples which give my parfait a shade of pink lovely enough to grace an Edwardian baby boy’s dress.
My first effort was served with a wild plum sorbet and some crumbly flapjack.
The version made only last month (September 2020) followed much closer to the recipe. Rose petals were added to flavour the apple sorbet and I sugared and lightly roasted some more to crumble over the top of the parfait.
Fragrance, freshness, sweetness and sharpness all make a dessert beautiful enough to discard the word ‘pudding’.
duck confit
‘essence’ p. 16
A wonderful store cupboard standby. Make sure at least a few are heated, crisped and eaten as they are. The shredded meat layered into potato dauphinoise or added to breads (try brioche) are just a couple of further ways to use it.
lemon and basil
This pulls together various elements and ideas from the ‘essence’ cookbooks. A lemon parfait, some vanilla ice cream and that splendid basil mojito sorbet are the trio of main players. Strips of candied orange peel and a fennel granola add texture and some home grown Thai basil gave wonderful sweet aniseed notes through leaves and flowers.
lemon meringue tart
‘dessert’ p. 66
Angelica and lemon sorbet and jelly were substituted here by my raspberry sorbet and some lemon verbena jelly. The sweet pastry recipe David devised for the National Chef of the Year (which he won!) makes a wonderfully reliable base to the tart here.
lemon verbena jelly
‘dessert’ p. 68
As seen in the recipe above. With the irresistible zing and tingle of sherbet lemons.
pickled apples
‘essence’ p. 21
(no photos available)
Another good one for the store cupboard. To combat fattiness of oily fish, game and terrines.
pickled green elderberries
’beyond essence’ p. 14
Made recently as I missed the opportunity to pickle wild garlic flower buds. Panic nearly set in as the elder only appeared to show dark, ripe berries. On closer inspection the foliage was hiding still green berries as well. White balsamic gives these a gentle sweet pickling.
pistachio and olive oil cake with roasted strawberries and rhubarb sorbet
‘essence’ p. 156
Changes here were poached apricots and apricot sorbet instead of the red fruits of the original.
prune and honey cake with pressed apples and mahlab cherry stone ice cream
‘dessert’ p. 62
(no photos available)
No substitutions when I made this one. Which involved one of my first forays into ‘speciality’ ingredients and a wait for the mahlab cherry stones.
Oh - this uses ‘marinated prunes in armagnac’ from page 16 of the same book. In full agreement with chef that you should make some to top a creamy rice pudding.
ras el hanout
‘essence’ p. 41
Many uses for this spice mix. Strong suspicion that it flavoured Mrs Cheoff’s lamb pastilla on our first visit to Cheltenham.
raspberry jelly
(adapted from strawberry and hibiscus jelly with lemon verbena custard and blackcurrant sorbet - ‘dessert’ p. 48)
The cover of ‘dessert’ shows the recipe I’ve adapted and presented in the same way as a pre-dessert. The jelly had a little Chambord raspberry liqueur added and is topped with a sweet amaretto whipped cream. Toasted spiced bread batons and crumbs for crunch.
roasted acorns
acorn panna cotta
‘essence’ p.166
Photographs for this one (I just made the acorn panna cotta) are mislaid. One property we visit in France has an oak tree with a ripe harvest. They are roasted on our return and ground. I love the Caramac or Dime Bar flavour this adds to cakes and custards.
salted caramel and peanut truffles
‘beyond essence’ p. 176
Yum. Just make them. (Snickers in disguise!)
salted lemons
‘essence’ p. 18
semifreddo of macadamia nuts with passion fruit and star anise sorbet
‘dessert’ p. 33
Our Boxing Day dessert a few Christmases ago. One of those dishes where guests can be seen silently thinking that I should abandon plating up portions for individuals and allow a free-for-all with large spoons back in the kitchen.
sorrel ice cream
‘dessert’ p. 119
I like this. Mrs Cheoff not keen. The distinct vegetable matter taste is almost bound to divide opinion.
spiced bread
‘essence’ p. 22
So many uses, both sweet and savoury. Crouton crunch for soups and salads and I’ve recently used the fine crumbs to line raspberry soufflé dishes. Mentioning it here reminds me to fulfil my long-standing promise to fry batons of this bread in lashings of butter and serve up with candied peel or confit fruits.
sweetcorn and smoked bacon muffins
‘beyond essence’ p. 29
These always go down just as well fresh or reheated. A bag of them is often to be found in our freezer.
sweetcorn cream with caramel and popcorn ice cream
‘dessert’ p. 82
One of the recipes I approached early on. As did son James who has been singing the praises of sweetcorn cream ever since.
tartare sauce
’essence’ p. 33
Taken from the recipe to go with crispy pig’s ears. I failed to get them cooked correctly - twice! But this sauce is regularly made for fish finger wraps and the haddock goujons in my album picture. If our tarragon plant outside has given up I’ll chop some salted lemons to add the same brightness.
tomato confit with lemon
‘essence’ p. 17
(no photos available)
Acidity and pulled back sweet fruit of tomato make for a tempting tracklement (not used that word for ages). Really good on a cube of hard cheese for starters. Well - for canapés I guess.
white chocolate and salted lemon fudge
‘dessert’ p. 140
One of the few recipes I’ll make with white chocolate. The salted lemon stops the ‘lazy’ cloying sweetness and makes you wonder if just one more might not be a bad idea.
That’s it. For now. If I come back to add future efforts (after pushing the DeLorean up to 88 mph?) my only dilemma will be whether to tag them on the end here or go full pedant and insert new entries in their alphabetical place.
So. The end. If you are still here - thank you and well done!