The Glorious Fifteenth
The 15th of August, commonly celebrated as the Glorious Fifteenth, marks the start of another year in the history of one of the world’s finest restaurants.
I wrote here about this iconic date in 2017 when David and Helen Everitt-Matthias marked thirty years since they had opened. So today sees them complete thirty-three years of presenting incomparable cooking and hospitality.*
* If you challenge my assessment I will be available on Hampstead Heath duelling ground accompanied by my second on the morning following your contemptible offence.
This is a personal statement which repeats feelings I’ve held for a long time. But I do know that its sentiments are shared by a vast number of hospitality professionals, present and past, who are much more qualified and equipped to comment on such things than an enthusiastic amateur like me.
David and Helen’s endeavour and passion have created a wonderful experience which continues to offer so many things to so many people. As a paying guest I have enjoyed a small part of what they do. The excitement before a visit and the memory of it leave strong and deep impressions.
I imagine David has papers - jottings, notes and sketches - which record his cooking explorations. If so, they will be the culinary equivalent of Leonardo da Vinci’s notebooks. We certainly have his published cookbooks to give us generous insight and encouragement on which to model success in our own kitchens.
‘Front of House Perfection’ authored by Helen? It’s a nice idea. But I doubt written instructions could ever substitute for being in close contact with the rare talents and human warmth which Helen models.
There is a point where finances - or the lack of them - restrict the chances to enjoy more developed restaurant experiences. Most cannot visit such places regularly. Including us. But our privilege is to be able to book occasionally. And on those occasional visits we benefit from the history which David and Helen have written for themselves and their guests. Which, in turn, makes those visits incredibly rich and satisfying. It is worth mentioning that anyone planning a ‘once-in-a-lifetime’ treat at Le Champignon Sauvage will need to save for a comparatively short time due to very generous pricing.
Covid-19 concerns continue to cast their shadow. But how heartening it was to hear in June that this particular landmark destination survives in Cheltenham. Anyone who enjoys being looked after superbly well while eating food cooked by a world-class chef must be grateful. Something so consistently close to perfection is a rare thing.
Let’s not just offer them our huge congratulations. Much of David and Helen’s motivation is deep and personal but ultimately they cook for us. A visit is really the best way to say thank you for their grand achievement. Our booking - and our thanks - are never too far away.