Le 6 à Table, Caromb - version française

Dîner - 6 juillet 2024

Cuisine fatiguée et hospitalité sans chaleur

Nous nous sommes appuyés sur les avis positifs des clients et les bons rapports des inspecteurs Michelin qui attribuent à ce restaurant un Bib Gourmand.

Hummm…
Notre expérience nous a laissé le sentiment que les inspecteurs Michelin avaient eu la chance de se rendre sur place un jour avant que cette équipe ne perde sa concentration et son enthousiasme.

Après un accueil poli, nous avons été conduits à notre table. Toutes les conversations ultérieures concernaient nos commandes de nourriture et de boissons. Je lis, parle, plaisante et rêve (!) en français, mais tout engagement ultérieur avec nous dans leur propre langue maternelle semblait au-delà du personnel. Ils ont complètement – ​​apparemment volontairement – ​​écarté l’opportunité de développer leurs compétences en relation client.

Canapés sans imagination et plutôt paresseux

Viognier + Roussanne ‘La Borry’

Les entrées étaient notre introduction à un repas qui a continué à décevoir. Oui. Après une telle attente, le mot est déception.

L’essence de la tomate n’avait pas été explorée pour le velouté et les morceaux bruts de fromage de chèvre ne laissaient en rien penser à une quelconque touche de raffinement.

Mon entrée reposait sur un produit AOP décent venu d'ailleurs, ce qui aurait dû donner au chef le temps de se concentrer sur son propre métier. Hélas, sa concasse de tomates était ordinaire et aqueuse.

Velouté de tomates anciennes

Jambon cru Noir de Bigorre et figues

Les plats principaux n’ont pas non plus atteint de points forts. La sauce au veau était aussi inachevée que le suggère ma photo.

Le mieux que l’on puisse dire de l’émulsion verte avec ma truite, c’est qu’elle ne provenait pas réellement d’un pot de peinture.

Paleron de veau cuit longuement

Truite des Sorgues en vapeur douce

Nos desserts simples nécessitaient une définition claire de la saveur. Cette clarté était malheureusement absente. Le sorbet et la glace étaient des plats fades qu'une fière cuisine aurait abandonnés et refaits. Le manque de finesse se voit dans une garniture maladroite de feuilles de menthe.

Tartelette figues, sorbet citron safran

Pêche blanche et tuile dentelle

Il est possible qu'une brigade de remplacement soit en place le soir de notre visite mais je suis persuadé que Claire nous a accueillis et que son mari Pascal Poulain est apparu de la cuisine au moment où je payais notre note.

Nous effectuons une ou deux visites en France chaque année depuis vingt-cinq ans. Ce repas ne gâchera pas l'estime que nous portons au pays et à ses habitants. Mais notre affection a certainement été ébranlée pendant un certain temps par les événements survenus au numéro 6 de Caromb.

Pour lire de bien meilleures choses et découvrir ce qu’un Bib Gourmand devrait, peut et offre réellement, pourquoi ne pas lire ici en anglais ou ici en français…

Peut-être Michelin va-t-il modifier sa notation du 6 à Table.
Oui.
Il y a toujours peut-être…

Le 6 à Table, Caromb

Dinner for 2 - 6 July 2024

We relied on positive reviews from guests and good reports from Michelin inspectors who award this restaurant a Bib Gourmand.

Hmmm…
Our experience left a distinct feeling that Michelin inspectors had been lucky to visit on a day before this team had lost focus and enthusiasm.

After a polite welcome we were shown to our table. All subsequent conversation concerned our orders for food and drink. I read, speak, joke, and dream (!) in French but any further engagement with us in their own native language seemed beyond staff. They completely - apparently willingly - discarded the opportunity to develop their customer relationship skills.

Unimaginative, rather lazy canapés 

Viognier + Roussanne ‘La Borry’

Starters were our introduction to a meal which continued to disappoint. Maybe I ought to say that we were underwhelmed. But, no. After such anticipation, disappointment is the word.
The essence of tomato had not been explored for the velouté and crude chunks of goat’s cheese did nothing to suggest much care for even a touch of refinement.
My starter relied on a decent AOP product from elsewhere which should have given chef time to focus on his own craft. Alas, his quenelle of tomato and onion was weak and watery.

Velouté de tomates anciennes

Jambon cru Noir de Bigorre et figues

Main courses didn’t hit any high spots either. The veal sauce was as unfinished as my photo suggests.
The best that can be said for the green emulsion with my trout was that it wasn’t actually from a paint pot.

Paleron de veau cuit longuement

Truite des Sorgues en vapeur douce

Our simple desserts needed clear definition of flavour. That clarity was sadly absent. The sorbet and ice cream were bland affairs which a proud kitchen would have discarded and remade. The lack of finesse can be seen in a clunky mint leaf garnish.

Tartelette figues, sorbet citron safran

Pêche blanche et tuile dentelle

It is possible that a substitute brigade let down this venue on the evening of our visit but I am convinced that Claire greeted us and that her husband Pascal Poulain appeared from the kitchen as I paid our bill.

We have made one or two visits to France each year for the last twenty-five years. This meal will not spoil the regard we have for the country and its people. But our affection was certainly dented for some while by events at Caromb’s Number 6.

To read about much better things and discover what a Bib Gourmand should, can and actually does offer why not read here in English or here in French?

Perhaps Michelin will get round to modifying their rating of Le 6 à Table.
Yes.
There is always perhaps…

Le Nid, Flayosc - version française

La Balade Gourmande - Dîner pour 4 - Mardi 9 juillet 2024

Oui, l'image ci-dessus est celle par défaut lorsque j'ai accédé au site Web de ce restaurant au Royaume-Uni.
Mais n’ayez crainte, s’il vous plaît. Ce qui suit est destiné à vous, nos amis français. Je pense qu'il est juste et approprié de proposer quelques mots dans votre langue maternelle pour décrire notre délicieux repas.
Un repas que j'imagine que vous avez tous apprécié également. Vous l'avez... n'est-ce pas !

Et si mes compétences linguistiques m'abandonnent, veuillez excuser - ou apprécier - mes erreurs.

D'accord. Allons-y!

Quelle délicieuse trouvaille. Nous voulions offrir à de bons amis un repas de fête pour leur 50e anniversaire de mariage tout en séjournant avec eux à Lorgues, en France. Après avoir réservé pour le mercredi 10, l’équipe masculine de football d’Angleterre a atteint la demi-finale de l’EURO24 qui se jouera ce soir-là. Ce qui nous a fait réfléchir. Des places étaient disponibles la veille; sans doute à cause de la participation de la France à l'autre demi-finale.* Nous sommes intervenus et avons sécurisé notre repas. ​

Le chef Davy Jobard et son épouse Émilie contrôlent totalement la nourriture et l'hospitalité que vous recevrez. Tout en s'appuyant sur le travail acharné et les bons ingrédients des producteurs locaux, les plats que vous propose Emilie avec une compréhension et un charme incontestables ont été conçus et préparés uniquement par Davy. Alors qu'il se détendait à la fin du service, j'ai demandé au chef combien de personnes composaient sa brigade de cuisine. "C'est moi, seul." fut sa réponse discrètement modeste.

Notre introduction a été cette offre inattendue qui n'est pas annoncée au menu. Je dis «inattendue» mais, bien sûr, nous étions en compagnie d’hôtes généreux.

Amuse
Espuma de pomme de terre, herbes, œufs de saumon

L'influence méditerranéenne, ainsi qu'un tournant vers les saveurs d'Afrique du Nord et du Moyen-Orient ont sous-tendu une grande partie de la soirée. Mais vous reconnaîtrez des notes provençales insistantes dans presque tous ces plats. La chair de la tomate locale formait une cloche sur la morue molle. Le gaspacho favouille était pour moi une nouvelle variante des soupes, bisques et sauces de crabe, de poisson de roche, et de crustacés. Peut-être que le safran était impliqué ici, mais la légèreté de l'ensemble du mélange le rendait adapté aux repas d'été.

La Tomate de Flayosc, Chiquetaille de morue / Gaspacho de favouille / fines herbes.

Quelqu'un a dit provençal ? Eh bien, voici de la ratatouille accompagnée d'un mélange d'ingrédients de pistou et de tapenade. Des légumes frais et vibrants étaient surmontés d'un jaune confit pour donner une touche d'émulsion riche lorsqu'ils sont abordés. Le menu anglais a une fausse traduction désarmante qui suggère que le jaune a été «candied». Ne pas s'inquiéter. Tout ce qui rappelle vaguement les fruits sirupeux apparaîtra plus tard.

La fine ratatouille, servi froide, Jaune d’œuf confit / courgette trompette.

Poisson au premier plan ensuite. De bons ingrédients combinés pour offrir une assiette bien équilibrée. Tous les éléments ont ajouté plutôt que nui au plat, avec des textures plus douces explorées.

Le Maigre de nos côtes, Cocos de Pays/ petites girolles d’été / jus à la livèche.

L'agneau était riche mais rendu moins lourd grâce à des légumes parfaitement cuits. Le caviar d'aubergines a été particulièrement réussi et sera repris dans notre cuisine avant que l'été ne fasse ses adieux.

Compression d’épaule d’’Agneau de nos bergers provençaux, aux épices / légumes / caviar d’aubergines.

Château Demonpère Proposé par Emilie pour accompagner l'agneau

La carte des vins est extrêmement alléchante. Pas trop effrayant mais l'accent mis sur les vins provençaux et du Rhône offre de nombreux délices. Notre choix de blanc s'est bien marié avec du poisson, des légumes et du fromage. Pouvoir ajouter un rouge de la sélection « Vins au verre » est une idée tellement judicieuse.

La décision d'inclure un plat de fromage a présenté un défi supplémentaire pour notre capacité gastrique, mais a ajouté encore plus de profils de saveurs à notre expérience. La combinaison de la douceur acidulée du fromage avec des fruits et des herbes constituait un très bon pont entre le plat principal et le dessert. « L’Ami Thomas » qui est référencé sur la carte comme producteur de fromage est originaire de La Ferme de la Bastide de Sollies. Vous pouvez en voir davantage (et ses chèvres !) sur ces liens Facebook et Instagram.

Le Chèvre frais de l’Ami Thomas, Pastèque / fenouil sauvage.

Le dessert fait souvent sortir les invités d’un repas avec un léger gémissement. Pas ici. La retenue, le croquant, la douceur et l’intrigue de l’olive confite indiquent que l’intention du chef est restée forte jusqu’au bout. La glace aux amandes était parfaite.

L’Amande / Fleur d’oranger / Olive noir maturé, Ode à la Provence.

Malgré notre évitement du thé, du café ou des digestifs, Emilie a apporté d'astucieux petits fours. Nous avons commencé à réfléchir à un repas plutôt glorieux et avons réglé volontiers notre note.

Gelée de fraises et basilic, chocolat noir et sarriette

Davy Jobard change la carte toutes les cinq semaines. Cela témoigne grandement de sa passion qui l’oblige à explorer les ingrédients les plus frais en saison. Ce qui signifie qu'il conçoit et donne naissance à quelque chose de nouveau et de vibrant presque chaque mois. Il y a des points d’intérêt à chaque contact et virage. Même à table entre bons amis, il vaut la peine de s'arrêter pour reconnaître les efforts et les compétences qui vous ont apporté une telle générosité. Vous vous retrouverez certainement obligé d'ignorer votre compagnie, au moins pour de courtes périodes, pour apprécier la richesse des textures et surtout des saveurs qu'offre Le Nid. Merci du fond du cœur à Davy et Emilie pour avoir créé quelque chose d'aussi spécial.

*Nos sincères commisérations à la France et à ses supporters de football. Alors que nous rentrions chez nous, nous sommes passés devant le Café du Midi et avons regardé le directeur éteindre le grand écran alors que la déception d'une nation s'installait.

Manifest - Wine Bar & Restaurant - Liverpool

Dinner for 2, Wednesday 6 September 2023

We ended up here after a ‘hiccup’ with our booking at The Art School. Another story there for another day. What a serendipitously marvellous change of venue this was.

Manifest is quite rightly acknowledged in the UK Michelin Guide but there are still no Michelin Stars for them or anyone else in Liverpool. Which is not total bollocks but let’s just say we should continue to treat the Michelin inspector’s spare, tired judgements with a bollock-sized pinch of salt.

Our visit gave ample evidence that, like all truly decent chefs, owner Paul Durand cooks for guests and not for the official accolades of the industry. In any case, in little more than a year since opening, the Manifest team have gained plenty of those accolades. Paul is The Staff Canteen Awards 2022 One to Watch Winner and a Google search fizzes with reference to more glowing reports and shiny trophies for him and his team.

Liverpool and environs - if you count Manchester as Liverpool’s environs! - is home to many of the much-loved Elite Bistros restaurants. I did wonder if Paul had cooked for us on our visit to ‘Sticky Walnut’ in 2019 but he had already served his time there and elsewhere.

You'll find a bit more detail about how he and partner Charlotte Jones made Manifest a reality here.

Let’s get to the food we so much enjoyed. You see Mrs Cheoff’s alliums and my mussels starter and guinea fowl main. The fig tart dessert was chosen by both of us. All link to photos on Manifest’s Instagram account. And there’s Mrs C’s turbot main which lacked a picture until Paul recently and conveniently shared it on his own account.

A sparkling rosé and a port and tonic joined the team’s signature salt and vinegar crisps while we waited for our food orders. And before dessert Wensleydale, Bara Brith and marmalade were an impulsive but deliciously rewarding addition to proceedings.

Cooking here is almost as simple as it gets. No more complication than four main elements in a dish with support from drop-dead gorgeous sauces and a garnish here and there. The thought which goes into devising the menu is obvious and the care with which it is brought to the plate is, well, manifest. Any simplicity is forgotten as you explore an array of well-developed flavours.

Our dessert was perhaps a step too far and reminded us that our stomachs are past their “Oh, yes, seconds please!” capacity. All the right flavours were there but a clunky pastry case gave a heavy end to our meal. Mind you, we still found room for some white chocolate fudge sweet treats!

Make an effort to quickly forget that last picky comment of mine. We left glowing - with admiration for the Manifest team and smug satisfaction for choosing to eat with them.

The Fab Four remain a big draw in Liverpool. John, Paul, George and Ringo were awarded a stream of platinum discs but when it comes to producing gold standard dishes the Magnificent Manifest Quartet above took the honours on our visit.

Of course they only represent one very important element of the Manifest team. Maya’s front of house attentions were delightful. She guided us through the wine list and gave us tastings of an orange wine and an English natural before giving us another white for examination. I certainly don’t have the nous to identify countries of origin, much less producers, vineyards or vintages but, presented with this final suggestion, a moment of small personal triumph arrived when I declared, “That’s chardonnay, isn’t it.”
Bugger me, it was. And very nice too. It went on to form the backdrop to our food choices.

Not sure how heavily the wine list relies on the services of GRAFT Wine Company but our wine is certainly on their books along with a few others of theirs which Manifest offer. Slightly miffed that their lovely portfolio is trade only.

More about the team…
Maya was joined by Claire who was bar-busy on the night but still accompanied our bill settlement with more relaxed chat. A KP shall remain nameless (only because I didn’t find out his name!). He punctuated our evening with stealth-like appearances, bearing freshly renovated pans for eager chefs. Props to all, some who we may not have met on the night, named or incognito. You are part of a very fine team.

The following photos reference one final, glorious element of our meal. We were sat at elevated counter seats and had continuous views of the pass.

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Here’s Jimmy and the text from my screen grab showing Manifest’s Instagram post about him.

“Sous chef Jimmy everyone, we’d be lost without him as he is the example of what’s great about chefs and hospitality. Hard working, dedicated to produce and dishes, always ready and on time. His favourite part of the job is the creativity. Being able to create dishes and seeing them through the development stages down to perfecting those final touches. Jimmy’s working the pass - so have a chat to him if you’re sat at our counter seats, he’s belter!”

And chat we did. I felt a mild guilty fear that other guest’s dishes might be compromised as we enjoyed piling in with questions. Jimmy dealt with his work and our distractions with magnificent ease. I’ve already been inspired to include a few ideas in my cooking. Jimmy was more than ‘belter’. He was gold dust sprinkled through our Manifest experience. No, don’t get too swell-headed Jimmy. I know that any of your colleagues would have been as generous. They were all immediately accessible and amenable for shorter times during our meal even though they weren’t as ‘centre stage’ as you.

The Manifest website did not reveal all details before we visited. Perhaps not updated before a holiday break. There were little hints about what goes on at the restaurant and how Paul and his team arrived there to work their hospitality magic. Much clamour about the wine but we needed to wait until we were through the doors to have a list. Just days after our visit the new menu which we so enjoyed appeared on the site in its entirety.

Instagram and Facebook pages give more tasty textual and pictorial hints. Whatever information you might find shared on social media in future, I’d strongly advise taking me on trust and booking for what increasing numbers know will be a guaranteed rich and rewarding experience.

Great hospitality is delivered in many different ways. You’ll find other venues to match Manifest. But you will struggle long and hard to find somewhere to beat it.

And when you have enjoyed that experience for yourself it’s only right to offer up some thoughtful appreciation as I am doing here. If these guys don’t crow about their achievements it’s surely our job to trumpet their praises. Make it a decent toot, please. In these tough times for hospitality even a small blow job can make a difference.

bookings@manifestrestaurant.com

Beach House, Oxwich

Beach House, Oxwich
Dinner for 2, Wednesday 28 June 2023, 6 Course, Table 9

This was our destination towards the end of a week in the ‘Land of My Fathers’. Yes, I’m a Griffiths and there are family stories which suggest that my ancestors were sheep-shaggers* in the Welsh Marches.
*EDIT: diligent research at AncestryUK reveals that sheep-stealers or sheep-farmers might more likely be in the frame.

One ‘s’ less in my surname and I could have tried to claim a complimentary meal from Chef Hywel Griffith on the grounds of tenuous family tree connections. Instead Mrs G and I paid up front and enjoyed a truly memorable experience with no question of quibbling about the final bill.

Beach House presented us with painstakingly designed and perfectly manicured dishes. Chef Director, Hywel’s credentials are fully established. It was great to see and hear him in a good-humoured kitchen ensuring that justice was done to his inspiration.
Our menu was varied and challenging. I can’t think of a detail which I would question or a quality of cooking which I could fault. Such sophistication can be challenging. The quiet, focused kitchen behind us sent out wave after wave of their creations. Front of house delivered them to table with assurance and understanding. All of which totally dismantled any suggestion of pretension. Here, skill, professionalism and honesty are the bedrock of sophistication.
There is no need for this team to crow about their achievements. Every arriving plate shouts out its class to guests.

Maybe stop there and check diary dates for your own booking before reading on for more of my personal reaction.

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Canapés

Smoked eel and lovage emulsion in that delicate tart. Those Oreo impersonators are actually charcoal biscuits with a truffled filling.
My descriptions should not be taken as perfectly reliable. I did ask questions and have tried to be as accurate as possible. Let’s face it, you should see enough here to encourage you to discover properly for yourself.

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Summer Pea

Presented as an amuse bouche, this was the first of our six dishes. Poor lighting has seriously compromised its fresh green vibrancy in my photo. Please be assured that pea, lemongrass and slivers of baby pea pods worked in a very cool way to kick off the excitement which would last through our meal.
Mrs G even admitted that her minor nemesis, lemongrass, had its place.

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Laverbread Bread and Ampersand Cultured Butter

The offer of bread has deep-rooted significance on many levels. Beach House have created their own signature loaf. They have shared the recipe here.
A slash of laverbread through the loaf gives a savoury tang and oats add extra texture to the crust.
A dove-tail jointed wooden case with Welsh slate top was designed - and made? - by Hywel Griffith’s father. (Please check with the restaurant to find out if I heard that right!)

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Oxwich Bay lobster, roasted lobster mayonnaise, pickled kohlrabi, elderflower & chervil.
Served with rye, buckwheat, sunflower and pumpkin seed crackers.

It’s bonkers how much interest a chef can cram into a small, perfectly-formed offering. A little bit of lobster luxury with fruit, acid, crunch, floral and herbal details.
It was becoming obvious that each dish would ask for a slowing down of attack from knife, fork or spoon and demand proper, reflective appreciation. Not quite as demanding as the thought and skill which has gone into developing this menu but I always think a guest should give up a few moments of their own in respect of those efforts.

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Jersey royals cooked in dashi - Smoked salmon - Slow-cooked yolk - Seaweed - Caviar - Watercress

Oh, heck; good things don’t always come to those who wait. Sometimes they just keep coming from the moment you are seated and carry on from there. This smoky, salty, bitter, earthy, eggy-rich, fishy business was not at all gloriously simple - but it was simply glorious.
If pressed, Mrs G would tell you this was her standout dish. Please press her gently.

The wine list is short enough to avoid confusion but offers a great range from ‘sensible’ to ‘sexy’. You’ll just have to go with me there. I know what I mean.
We were already drinking our choice which was from a previously unexplored region and grape. You will find the Altesse we chose on the domaine's website here.

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John Dory, Courgette, Ricotta, Basil, Black Olive

A fish substitution from the 8 course menu for Mrs G as she was not keen on crab with the sea trout. Lovely fish and vegetable elements. The basil was very insistent. Too insistent in its rawness for my wife. Any dish with this riff on Provencal pistou/tapenade references is likely to challenge. Pretty sure I would have loved that challenge.

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Sea trout, verjus, peas, grapes, yakitori butter sauce and seaweed oil

My ‘main’ was just delightful. Painfully so - with no pain involved whatsoever, if you catch my drift. The cooking of the trout was perfect. It had a lot of competition from the rest of the dish but everything was so well judged that all balanced however much each element might teeter around my palate.
Peeled grapes are a right faff, aren’t they? But most welcome for their liquid refreshment and less intense nod to the more acidic verjus. Pretty sure the peas were replaced by baby broad beans.
If I understand it right the sauce is flavoured with grilled chicken. A gentle riff on ‘surf ‘n’ turf’.

And then look below for my photos of a little bit of magic. Perhaps it’s simply chef’s idiotic generosity. Either way, a crab brioche bun is “such stuff as dreams are made on” (yes, thank you very much Will Shakespeare). Soy and honey glazed for good measure. You are now dribbling just a little, I imagine.
I have included a screenshot of my ‘redacted’ sweary appreciation of the dish from the Beach House Instagram page.

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Two desserts to fit in. The first announced as a pre-dessert. Many chefs avoid white chocolate. Here was an attempt to overcome its silky sickliness. A successful attempt.

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White chocolate, yuzu, black rice, nasturtium and oil

Could we finish with final proof of a team on top of their game? Ah. Yes. Very much so.
Once more, I didn’t pay enough attention to pass on the exact nature of the creamy (custardy?) element of the strawberry tart. It, and the parchment-thin sweet pastry underpinned jiggling hits of fruit, citrus and acid from strawberries, lemon verbena and finger lime. I have to concede that the lemon verbena ice cream was quite the equal of my own homemade.

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Scottish Strawberry

Just an aside. If you don’t already know The Plate Licked Clean (that’s his Insta link) I’d suggest popping over to his blog right away. The writing is always rich and the recommendations - and condemnations - ruthlessly reliable.
This piece of his makes particularly interesting reading as it reviews a younger Beach House in 2017 less than a year after opening. The iconic laverbread bread is already on show but the food has developed strongly into the dishes we ate.

The restaurant was obviously good then. I’d suggest that it has since improved at a much greater rate than is usual.

We passed on coffees, teas and digestifs but a chocolate caramel cup and an almond financier appeared as a sweet end to our visit. No gratuities are added to your bill. You will almost certainly be tempted to show your appreciation with even more than whatever your ‘usual’ might be.

We wandered out onto the verandah to take in the full sweep of Oxwich Bay which is chopped and sliced up from the interior by mirrors. The location is just as stunning as the restaurant. A friendly couple told us what attractions we had missed during our stay and encouraged us to use Wales as a tourist destination again.
When that happens Beach House will be first on our list for a repeat visit.

Huge thanks to a wonderfully accomplished team. You offer everything which is great about hospitality and delivered it from greeting right through to our rather wistful exit from the car park.

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TOO MANY CHIEFS ONLY ONE INDIAN/SAT BAINS/

Published in September 2012, this cookbook has been on my wish-list for the last six years. In that time loving gift-givers have all been found lacking in sufficient generosity but, in fairness, have managed to find reasonably agreeable alternative presents to fit their reduced financial circumstances. When I recently had my first magazine article published I decided that I would buy the book. What? Yes, someone paid me for writing that article!

Sat Bains introduced himself onto my list of chefs who sound interesting when the second series of Great British Menu aired in 2007. Entering the competition reluctantly, his dish of egg, ham and peas was judged the best starter and was cooked at the British Embassy in Paris at an Ambassadors Dinner. The programme bumped up bookings at the restaurant for the best part of a year. Ham/Egg/Peas was still served to customers when this book was published five years later. But some things must move on and fair warning was given of an evolved version of the dish on the menu from 2013. Recipes for the original and for the modified dish both necessarily appear in the book. I promise to return to the food before letting you out for playtime but first a little about other aspects of the book.

The history which has made a world-class chef and restaurant is set out. Experiences and influences which have formed Sat Bains are written in plenty of publications, many available online, but all salient points are covered here through sections which nicely round up everything that has led to a bit of magic appearing at the NG7 postcode. The background story is followed by a spot of backslapping, backchat and general musing from Sat’s peers in the form of their personal response to news of his publication.

Some of the chefs contribute enjoyable and positive asides but a few ‘usual suspects’ appear and reference the worst aspects of any workplace. Kitchen bullies are still a huge problem - they diminish the business and discourage people who might otherwise enter the profession. It is sad that Sat Bains’ CV includes his involvement in activities which too many chefs defend as being a ‘rite of passage’ or an understandable response to a relentlessly tough environment. There is no compromise for me on this. I have enough personal experience to be sure that such behaviour is unnecessary and always indefensible. There. That’s done. Paragraphs below will show you that I don’t allow such flaws in the industry to completely blind me to the glorious things which come out of its kitchens.

It’s worth noting that the London ‘White Heat’ of Marco Pierre White’s iconic 1990 book is already less intensely on display in the generous galleries of photographs from the Nottingham kitchen.

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Available here.

My copy arrived safe and sound. It is well packaged with one more outer box already recycled and unavailable for the photoshoot above. Production values are very high. I can imagine the same thought and care was put into the book release as is put into letting a dish go out to diners at Restaurant Sat Bains. The visual impact of text, the contrast of papers and the occasional pattern from pierced sheets - think perforated metal cookware - give a deliberate aesthetic. Pages of Sat’s creative development doodlings are reproduced and this whole volume has strong vibes of a chef’s notebook in appearance. Mind you, this one weighs in at over 3 kilograms and has a slipcase large enough to garage a Robin Reliant.

Graphologists would have a fine time dissecting the crazy hand-written script used by Sat. Here is their usual assessment of ‘all-caps handwriting’.

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More explanation here.

Interesting, eh? I’m not much versed in the science of graphology but it seems to have a little more validity than the hokum of, say, astrology. Mind you, those five rather bleak judgements are blown out of the water by the nature of Sat Bains’ capitalisation. His is no rigid, four-square delivery. He flashes an idiosyncratic calligraphy across a page with flourishes, connections and ascenders and descenders which I imagine would confound any handwriting expert. Here is someone who veered away from visual art as a career but who insists on doing the hugely important job of recording food ideas through the medium of his own, inventive and eye-catching art form. I am fine with this. I like a clever bugger.

Those food ideas are revealed in their fully developed state in the recipes. Oh, yes. We are entering the main course I promised. The food. These pages take you through dishes which all fit into the progression of a tasting menu at the restaurant. So ‘main courses’ are small to fit comfortably into chef’s delivery of a huge flavour-driven spread.

SALT - SWEET - SOUR - BITTER - UMAMI

Five taste profiles are described for each dish. ‘Umami’ was recognised back in 1908 but has probably only been in anything like common usage for a couple of decades. The word ‘bitter’ pushes us towards ideas of unpleasantness but it is good to see it have its rightful inclusion. It has been given centre stage by provocative chef/writer Jennifer McLagan in this book.

Jean Anthelme Brillat- Savarin thought the number of tastes is infinite, because each one is unique. Sat Bains spares us that confusion. He offers no detailed scientific analysis of the way tastes ‘work’ together. For that, go to something like Nik Sharma’s ‘The Flavor Equation’. But chef’s decisions about the final balance of a dish rest on decades of experience, investigation and development. All of which jump from the page as convincing and reassuring - and as more immediately accessible than many other high-end cookbooks.

Be prepared for compromise. Unless you have enough equipment and experience in the kitchen you will struggle to do justice to many of the dishes. Hours - months - of rigorous groundwork has all been done for the reader but I know there are details of finish, texture and temperature which will inevitably escape me as I try to recreate some dishes. None of which will deter me. There is compelling inspiration here and it would only be respectful to go some way to trying to reproduce it at home.

Professional chefs will have eagerly gobbled up this book. Most of us cooking at home will have to invest in one more thing - a wholesale review of the way we offer our food. Inviting keen family or friends to help with preparation for a couple of days might not be a bad idea. Form your own brigade. If you go solo, completion of any one of the dishes would be a worthwhile challenge to add to your skill set and understanding. Unless you are inviting a full house be prepared to adjust quantities. This is one of very few cookbooks where each recipe will serve ten.

For the real thing we must be grateful that Covid rule relaxations have opened up bookings at the Nottingham restaurant. Be persistent. Many are already ahead of us in the queue!

I’ve reviewed what is now a relatively old book. It was given a multitude of awards on publication. Coming to it late, I still find it fresh and exciting. It would be a lie to say that it will find a permanent place beside my stoves. But only because it is far too classy to be subjected to close contact with the splash and splutter of the kitchen. Notes will be taken. Recipes will be photographed or digitised. Seasonality is highlighted throughout so that will be given a firm nod.
I’ll agonise a little before deciding what to challenge myself with first. Chef gives clear instructions for complex dishes but refuses to prescribe presentation. You and I are delightfully on our own with that. I’ve already bookmarked a comparatively simple savoury ice cream sandwich. Watch out for reports on my efforts.

The overwhelming first hit of ‘Too Many Chiefs…’ is its style. Ultimately, rather like Sat Bains, this ‘One Indian’ impresses with its huge substance. You should know that, while not dismissing the Michelin Guide, I set small store by their judgements. They do allow for one subjective but interesting criteria - the personality of a chef on his plates. This chef has stamped his personality on every page of his book.

Sat Bains recently posted evidence that he’s not a Covid denier or an anti-vaxxer. So, a couple more redeeming features to add to the complexities of forming a balanced view of one of our most compelling, multi-faceted chefs. Whatever he might do with ham and peas, he appears to be a fairly good egg.

Le Champignon Sauvage - another stunning meal

Before anything else I must clearly state that on this, our sixth visit, the food and service at ‘Le Champignon Sauvage’ was still firmly there in the upper reaches of fabulous cooking and the comforting realms of perfect hospitality.

In view of the very dubious Michelin Guide pronouncements on the food at this restaurant I wrote a review for Tripadvisor which has the mischievously misleading title "‘Our worst fears - confirmed’.

My few sensitively constructed paragraphs ended with a small, carefully formed dig at the institution whose ‘Red Guide’ is struggling to retain the respect of hospitality and guests alike.

Oops! Unfortunately Tripadvisor intervened before I was allowed to submit my labour of love. Understandably they recoil at profanity and issued me with what I intend calling their contrafanity.

I modified the offending word with a couple of symbols and was allowed to offer my text for scrutiny before publication. It is screen-captured here in case the TA gods decide that any recognisable form whatsoever of the word ‘arseholes’ still constitutes a profanity.

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I was hoping to explain things with this footnote to my review but it still had ‘arseholes’ in it - so it wasn’t included in my submission to Tripadvisor.

“I have typed ‘^rseh%les’ because I’m not sure if Tripadvisor allow you to call anyone an arsehole. Which is such a shame when the whole Michelin shower, from their International Director, Gwendal Poullennec down to the food bloggers who so many suspect must act as ‘inspectors’ are such horrendous arseholes.
Oops.
I mean ^rseh%les.
Sorry.”

I’ll let you know if/when my modified version passes through their large intestine and is evacuated from the bowels of Tripadvisor.

Edit: THEY PUBLISHED IT… here. Phew - thank you Tripadvisor!

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